Somewhwere in the small print of Marcel Ceccons book ,he mentions the friendly people of this club. We decided that we needed to do a few things in Angra central, and that we would stop over at the club, and try to catch a bus through to Angra. At the same time it would allow us to leave the VHF on Channel 6, where on which we had arranged to make contact with Chris and Helen Hull, who were arriving in Marina Bracuhy, to sail up to Rio for the Carnival.
Well what a good decision! The people in this club have been absolutely wonderful, and even though there is not much English, they have made us feel very welcome, and have been incredibly helpful. Its not easy to get a SA kg gas bottle filled here, but they spirited my bottle away, and returned it full that same day, for less than a refill would cost in SA! They have a free Wifi service at the club, and we are treated as honorary members, at no charge, paying discounted club member prices for food and drink. I was a bit worried about leaving the boat without an engine , on a swing mooring in Frade, and decided to investigate having the bearings and seals replaced here. No sooner had I shown them the pump, and explained my situation, than I was introduced to mechanico Renaldo, who offered to go in to Angra, buy the three sets I asked for( 2 as spares), strip , replace , respray and return it to me just after lunch !
He was as good as his word, and charged me Real 300 ! Less than half of what Southern Marine had charged me , for what was a bum job, and took 5 days, with no spares! Angra is a 15min bus ride away, and we were able to do our shopping, Receita Federal admin, buy bus tickets to Sao Paoulo, and get back to the boat by mid afternoon. A lot cheaper, and less stressfull, than doing
it all from Piratas Mall. We have just met Bob and Robyn, on a beautifully maintained old classic S&S lookalike, "Mist Dawn", who Kyall had told us to look out for.( Kyall himself, is expected to arrive in New Dawn, in about a week, with his new lady, Tessa) They are an American couple who have been cruising for 12 years, and have just come up from the Horn, having sailed from New Zealand to Chile, in 45 days, before going through Beagle channel. On their way up from Uraguay, on one one leg, they took 7 days to do 300miles,battling both current and head winds! They have got a wealth of experience and good advice on equipment and routings, and have certainly made us rethink our plans for next year. Eg When you leave the Carribean area, do so by June, and head staight up to Maine- beautiful, unspoilt, and mostly free. Stay there until Mid October, and then either work your way down the ICW, or, if you really want to see America, the Tennessee waterway right down to New Orleans! Definite food for thought!
Later today, we will head back to Siteo Forte, where we will meet up with Sea Lion, for an evening, and then head back round to Abrooa, via Lagoa Azul,and Saco de Ceu, so that we can revisit Ens de Palmas, and Lopes Mendes. We will then move down to the Parati area to spend a couple of weeks exploring special places, fjords, anchorages and islands.
And all the while, we wait with baited breath to hear news of Yvonne and Jeremy on Jervonne, who we gather never checked in to St Helena. We can only hope they pop up in Salvador, having changed plans en route.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Power struggle lost!!
After many nights of being woken by the electrical alarms squawking that the batteries were getting lower and lower, and our self dillusional excuses blaming the cloud cover, we finally had to admit defeat! Our very expensive Haze Gel batteries were porked in just two years! We searched far and wide for reasonablly priced deep cycle batteries, which would fit into the
battery compartment, without needing to rebuild the boat around them. The new Optima Marine Blue top Spiral AGM's made a brief claim, until the $310 per battery on the website translated into R6000 each when purchased in Brazil ! R24000 for the 4 needed, was just not on! We went through the whole battrey type debate again, and eventually settled for 4 Delphi Freedom Service 115ah batteries at Real 540 (R2500 ) each, which we managed to find
at the new Verolme Marina, around the corner from Angra. It is the biggest and newest Marina in Brazil, and the facilities are impressive, and expensive! They have special forklifts, which can pick up the 40-50ft Power craft, of which there are so many, so when fatso gets back from his day jaunt, they can simply lift it out of the water,and pop it back into its pigeon hole, which could be up to four levels high , in a massive covered shed! When I enquired about leaving Sheer
Tenacity in their care for two months, they said ," sure, very good after carnival price of 4 Real, per foot, per day" That works out at R22300 per month !! All of a sudden the other quotes I had got seemed a little more reasonable! Porto Real, R5625pm, Bracuhy marina R8100 pm ! It would appear that they take the normal monthly rental for an annual contract, and double
it for a two month stay, and treble it for a 1 month stay. I had been told to come to Porto Frade Marina by a lovely Argentinian couple (Omar & Dominique, Sole V), who is also a broker in BA, and who uses Frade often. We have accepted their quote of Real 500(R2250) per month, for a secure swing mooring, with the Marina manager( Hector) personally looking after the boat,
batteries ,systems etc.
From Verolme, we headed back to Siteo Forte, where we met up with Nic and Rene Rust , on la Rose, and a Doctor friend of theirs, Peter Berming. We had gone out together to a Brazillian braai at a hostel in Abrooa(Real 20), and got on extremely well, and finding a number of good
friends in common! Nic's Borg Warner gearbox was shot, and he did not like the Brazillian quote of Real 22000 for a replacement, so he intends trying in Uraguay. He wanted to mount his 25hp Yamaha onto his swim bracket, and took my 8 hp Yamaha Enduro for his tender ! We will settle up back in RSA in April!
He left for Pararty the next day, and we decided to spend one more night in Siteo Forte, before resuming our search for a two month mooring! Moored not far from us was a steel ketch, Rapunzal, which we recognized as the one belonging to the Author of the Brazillian Cruising
Guide , Marcal Ceccon., which I have been using, and quoting! Over coffee I bought his new updated 2008 version (I felt embarrassed,because my copy was a dog-eared photocopy of his 2002 update, given to me by an American cruiser!), and told him that his facts about checking in to Angra were wrong! He listened to my tale, and promised to correct it, starting with my
copy! He inserted the words "not so" into his line, "It is easy to check in at Angra"!
It had been as hot as Hades that day, and something had to give! It did that evening, and we experienced a seriously violent and frightening thunderstorm, which arrived very suddenly over the mountain. It upended our dinghy, with brand new 3.3hp mercury, and shredded our bimini
before we could do a damn thing! I was still busy putting the satphone, handheld vhf, gps etc in the oven(Faraday cage theory), and disconnecting aerials! The boats were swinging around alarmingly in the 40+knots, and while I was fairly confident about our 40mts of anchor chain out, and 35kg Bruce, I was worried about some of the other boats on swing mooring bouys.
The next day was spent stripping the engine and repairing the bimini, in the pouring rain which came with the cold front that pushed up from the South. The following day , we motored across to Frade, via the normally idyllic islands "Botinas", "Itanhangha", and "Paquettas". Sadly the
water was no longer the crystal clear greens and blues to which we had become acustomed, but chocolate brown, and full of broken branches and trees. We learnt that Paradise can get nasty!
We are in the process of booking our home visit tickets, for April /May, and will then go through the "Recita Federal" beaurocracy of "declaring the boat closed during our absence." With all the admin behind us, we will then make our way down to Paraty, where we are looking forward
to seeing the old Historical city, as well as some of the special anchorages. I wonder whehther our Garmen blue charts will prove to be any more accurate down there! It is not without reason that they stipulate that they should not be relied upon for navigation! So far my tracks have mown through three islands, and at least one headland, and I never even felt a bump! Given the poor level of detail in some areas, the inaccuracies we have found, and the chart prices we were forced to pay, in order to fit their excellent hardware, they should be ashamed!
We were alarmed to receive a mail forwarded by Chris Sutton, reporting the mugging of 7 Cape to Bahia crews in Salvador. We were also told here, of a Brazilian yachty who was murdered somewhere behind Itaparica not long ago. We have felt so safe, secure, and unthreatened down here around the islands. Frade is on the mainland, and has a 5 star Hotel and Marina, alongside a very poor neighbourhood.(Like Fortaleza?) Whether it was our imagination, or the effect of reading Chris' s mail, we found ourselves going back to our high security cruising rules for the night. Lift the dinghy, engine off and secure, security grates in place, motion sensor alarm on in cockpit .Then,just as we were turning in, we noticed two shadowy figures moving about on the barge boat moored 40 mts away. Moving with stealth, and no lights, and no talking, we watched them moving around the boat. When the boat swung, we saw a rubber duck tied alongside, with an engine that had not been used to get there. Through our bino's we decided that they were up to no good! Looked just like typical Hout Bay Skelms! I certainly did not feel happy about going to bed with them on the boat next door! I decided to see if a 1 million candle power spotlight directed at them might induce a change in their behaviour! I gave them a quick blitz, and we watched first their rabbit in headlight looks of alarm, and then their hasty escape via paddled rubber duck off into darkness! Reality check! We will try not to let ourselves become complacent again! More later!
battery compartment, without needing to rebuild the boat around them. The new Optima Marine Blue top Spiral AGM's made a brief claim, until the $310 per battery on the website translated into R6000 each when purchased in Brazil ! R24000 for the 4 needed, was just not on! We went through the whole battrey type debate again, and eventually settled for 4 Delphi Freedom Service 115ah batteries at Real 540 (R2500 ) each, which we managed to find
at the new Verolme Marina, around the corner from Angra. It is the biggest and newest Marina in Brazil, and the facilities are impressive, and expensive! They have special forklifts, which can pick up the 40-50ft Power craft, of which there are so many, so when fatso gets back from his day jaunt, they can simply lift it out of the water,and pop it back into its pigeon hole, which could be up to four levels high , in a massive covered shed! When I enquired about leaving Sheer
Tenacity in their care for two months, they said ," sure, very good after carnival price of 4 Real, per foot, per day" That works out at R22300 per month !! All of a sudden the other quotes I had got seemed a little more reasonable! Porto Real, R5625pm, Bracuhy marina R8100 pm ! It would appear that they take the normal monthly rental for an annual contract, and double
it for a two month stay, and treble it for a 1 month stay. I had been told to come to Porto Frade Marina by a lovely Argentinian couple (Omar & Dominique, Sole V), who is also a broker in BA, and who uses Frade often. We have accepted their quote of Real 500(R2250) per month, for a secure swing mooring, with the Marina manager( Hector) personally looking after the boat,
batteries ,systems etc.
From Verolme, we headed back to Siteo Forte, where we met up with Nic and Rene Rust , on la Rose, and a Doctor friend of theirs, Peter Berming. We had gone out together to a Brazillian braai at a hostel in Abrooa(Real 20), and got on extremely well, and finding a number of good
friends in common! Nic's Borg Warner gearbox was shot, and he did not like the Brazillian quote of Real 22000 for a replacement, so he intends trying in Uraguay. He wanted to mount his 25hp Yamaha onto his swim bracket, and took my 8 hp Yamaha Enduro for his tender ! We will settle up back in RSA in April!
He left for Pararty the next day, and we decided to spend one more night in Siteo Forte, before resuming our search for a two month mooring! Moored not far from us was a steel ketch, Rapunzal, which we recognized as the one belonging to the Author of the Brazillian Cruising
Guide , Marcal Ceccon., which I have been using, and quoting! Over coffee I bought his new updated 2008 version (I felt embarrassed,because my copy was a dog-eared photocopy of his 2002 update, given to me by an American cruiser!), and told him that his facts about checking in to Angra were wrong! He listened to my tale, and promised to correct it, starting with my
copy! He inserted the words "not so" into his line, "It is easy to check in at Angra"!
It had been as hot as Hades that day, and something had to give! It did that evening, and we experienced a seriously violent and frightening thunderstorm, which arrived very suddenly over the mountain. It upended our dinghy, with brand new 3.3hp mercury, and shredded our bimini
before we could do a damn thing! I was still busy putting the satphone, handheld vhf, gps etc in the oven(Faraday cage theory), and disconnecting aerials! The boats were swinging around alarmingly in the 40+knots, and while I was fairly confident about our 40mts of anchor chain out, and 35kg Bruce, I was worried about some of the other boats on swing mooring bouys.
The next day was spent stripping the engine and repairing the bimini, in the pouring rain which came with the cold front that pushed up from the South. The following day , we motored across to Frade, via the normally idyllic islands "Botinas", "Itanhangha", and "Paquettas". Sadly the
water was no longer the crystal clear greens and blues to which we had become acustomed, but chocolate brown, and full of broken branches and trees. We learnt that Paradise can get nasty!
We are in the process of booking our home visit tickets, for April /May, and will then go through the "Recita Federal" beaurocracy of "declaring the boat closed during our absence." With all the admin behind us, we will then make our way down to Paraty, where we are looking forward
to seeing the old Historical city, as well as some of the special anchorages. I wonder whehther our Garmen blue charts will prove to be any more accurate down there! It is not without reason that they stipulate that they should not be relied upon for navigation! So far my tracks have mown through three islands, and at least one headland, and I never even felt a bump! Given the poor level of detail in some areas, the inaccuracies we have found, and the chart prices we were forced to pay, in order to fit their excellent hardware, they should be ashamed!
We were alarmed to receive a mail forwarded by Chris Sutton, reporting the mugging of 7 Cape to Bahia crews in Salvador. We were also told here, of a Brazilian yachty who was murdered somewhere behind Itaparica not long ago. We have felt so safe, secure, and unthreatened down here around the islands. Frade is on the mainland, and has a 5 star Hotel and Marina, alongside a very poor neighbourhood.(Like Fortaleza?) Whether it was our imagination, or the effect of reading Chris' s mail, we found ourselves going back to our high security cruising rules for the night. Lift the dinghy, engine off and secure, security grates in place, motion sensor alarm on in cockpit .Then,just as we were turning in, we noticed two shadowy figures moving about on the barge boat moored 40 mts away. Moving with stealth, and no lights, and no talking, we watched them moving around the boat. When the boat swung, we saw a rubber duck tied alongside, with an engine that had not been used to get there. Through our bino's we decided that they were up to no good! Looked just like typical Hout Bay Skelms! I certainly did not feel happy about going to bed with them on the boat next door! I decided to see if a 1 million candle power spotlight directed at them might induce a change in their behaviour! I gave them a quick blitz, and we watched first their rabbit in headlight looks of alarm, and then their hasty escape via paddled rubber duck off into darkness! Reality check! We will try not to let ourselves become complacent again! More later!
Monday, February 2, 2009
Checking in at Angra
"Angra Dos Reis is an easy point of entry". So says Marcel Ceccon on p107 of his otherwise excellent Brazilian Cruising Guide. Like Hell it IS !!!! It took two full days, left us totally underwhelmed with Brazillian bureaucracy, suffering from genuine heatstroke, and utterly amazed that such a friendly, and charming people, living in paradise, can put up with such an innefficient government service! Shut up Rod--what do you think you have got in RSA?!!
The guide says step 1, visit Capitano dos Portos, stp 2, Policia Federal ( Immigration), step 3, Receita Federal ( Customs).Quite straight forward. This was our experience.
We sailed to the new Piratas Mall Marina, about two miles out of Angra,moored at the fuel jetty, and took a taxi to the Port Captains office arriving about 10.00am. At the office, an arguement ensued, about where we should present ourselves first. The staff divided between Immigration first, then Customs, and vice versa, with the majority decision, to much laughter, was Immigration. I asked for directions, and one enthusiastic fellow drew a map, with strict instructions, how find it, 400mts away. His map was wrong, and after retracing our steps 3 times, we were spotted by a Brazillian couple, who recognised distressed gringos, and
asked in perfect English if they could help! Roberto & Brita turned out to be fellow yachties , and insisted on walking us through the procedure, as "our government officials dont work. They only go to socialise, and talk to themselves in airconditioned offices!" After a few enquiries, we found the Immigration offices, NOT, where the map said, but got there at 11.59, only to be told they closed at 12.00, and to come back at 14.00. Roberto then suggested we try the Receita Federal, who might have different lunch hours. They found out where they were and by 12.15 we were there, only to be told to go to the Port Captain first! Roberto explained that we had been there,
and were told otherwise! Then you must go to Policia Federal first. Roberto and Brita, had to leave, but not before they had taken us to a great airconditioned supermarket, where one could buy a good pizza, and enjoy a cold one, before heading back to Immigration. We got back at 13.45, and decided to sit on the wall and one chair in the shade outside the office door, to wait out the 15 minutes. We were chased away in no uncertain terms, and told to come back at 14.00hrs. We could not "Cush" outside ! So we found an overhanging tree which offered some shade, a few hundred metres down the road. We were back at 14.00. The official was now entertaining a fellow official, to much hilarity, so we waited 15 minutes until they were done. At last! After presenting all our documents, he wanted to know where my Xeroxs were. He needed copies of the passport front pages, plus any previous Brazilian entry stamps. I said no problem, copy them! No, they had no xerox, I must copy them and come back. 20 minutes later, we found a Xerox agency, made copies, and schlepped back. We then had to fill in standard arrivals/departure forms, but he then wanted a copy of the Boat Registration Papers. This time he stood up, went upstairs, and came back with the copy! By 14.45 we were back at Receita Federal.We werelucky that Roberto had found the applicable unmarked office door on which to knock! We knocked, and were attended to... for the next two hours! They wanted photographs of the boat which could be attatched to the very bulky file they were preparing. I promised to Email one to him that evening when I got back to the boat.Ricardo was a very nice, ernest, but slow and diligent type. At one stage he asked me for the US dollar value of the boat. I gave him a
realistic figure-- stupid, stupid ! They only want that figure to be able to calculate the fine that they will impose if you should transgress any of the time limits given to you! By 15.45 we were done. He then said that we had to go to Anviso, and then Port Captain. Anviso ? whats that? Department of health for clearance ! No one had mentioned that, and we had assumed that
the Yellow Fever Immunization cards presented with Passports covered that lot! The Port Captains office never mentioned Anviso with their list, so because we were very hot, and tired, we decided to go back there. The official there shuffled our papers, and triumphantly says
"Anviso?". Its now 16.30, and we ask for directions to "Anviso". They are in the City Warf Docks. By 17.00 we get there, only told that they only open at 11.30 next day ! We also know we have greatly exceeded our two hour courtesy stay at the fuel jetty, so catch a bus back to the Mall. We had a great need to chill and relax, so we cast off and sailed to Site Forte, (1 hour) to anchor,and swim, determined to be back at Anviso at 11.30 the next day.
This time, I put 200litres into the tanks, and gave the lad a twenty Real tip, before asking if I could leave the boat again while I completed the formalities! We were at the city warf entrance by 11.20, but the security checks and procedures, before you are given the access card to go to anviso, took another 20 minutes. Eventually we are taken to another very nice man, who just anted to talk! After a while he looked at the Yellow Fever Cards, and says "you dont need these!" , but I do need copies of your pasports, and copies of your boat papers before I can give you the Health Clearance Paper! So its back to the Xerox agency in town, and back to our chatty health officer. Eventually, were are given the important Anviso paper, and head back to the Capitano dos Portos. We got there at 12.15, and were told to come back at 13,30, because they were closed for lunch. The previous day , they had boasted about being open 24hrs a day. I
pointed that out to them. He agreed, but said not to the public! Come back at 13.30! Back to the Supermarket for a Coke and Pizza, and then back to the Port Captain at 13.30.
We got out of there by 14.15, finally legally entitled to enjoy our cruise in Brazil! On the way back, we went past the Receita Federal, to put the boat Photo in Ricardo's hand, and to ask him to explain once again how the rules applied to the boats time in Brazil, as I knew I could not afford to make a mistake. We would be flying back to RSA in March, leaving the boat in a Marina, and returning in May to continue our cruise up the Brazilian Coast. "Please explain exactly what you want me to do !? The rules work like this. The boat may remain in Brazil for three months, same period as immigration visa. If you wish to extend your immigration visa, you must apply 15 days before expiry, with Immigration, and then go to Receita Federal, to request a similar extension for the boat. In my case, by flying out, I will automatically be given a new three month visa, (renewable to 6). The boats time schedule keeps ticking, so I will have to go Back to Receita Federal, and give them a "declaration" that I am flying back to RSA, and leaving the boat behind . They will then "CLOSE" the boat, and the responsibilty is with the Marina in whose care it is left, to make sure it is not used! When I fly back, I will have to go back to Receita Federal, for them to "OPEN" the boat for me for a three month, (renewable to
6) period. When I wish to sail up to Rio, I will need to visit them once again to inform them that I am sailing out of their area of responsibility, and clear out with Port control as well. I then have to check in with Port Control, and Receita Federal there. This procedure applies to entry and
departure to all the Brazilian provinces, as one travels the coast.One can arrange to leave the boat "closed" in Brazil for up to two years. We eventually got back to Site Forte at about 18.00, completely stuffed. The temperature had been in the high 30s, and you are required to wear long pants and smart shirts, using shanks pony for transport between their ivory towers, as a sign of respect ( Please!!). I had a serious case of heat exhaustion, and spent the night shivering and shaking , throwing up any liquids I tried to keep down! And they expect one to respect this
bureaucractic bullshit!
A Final tip. Take 10 photcopies of your passports, any prvious brazilian entry stamps, and your boat papers with you , and unless you speak Portuguese, pray that you are picked up by a pair of friendly angels like Roberto and Brita!
The guide says step 1, visit Capitano dos Portos, stp 2, Policia Federal ( Immigration), step 3, Receita Federal ( Customs).Quite straight forward. This was our experience.
We sailed to the new Piratas Mall Marina, about two miles out of Angra,moored at the fuel jetty, and took a taxi to the Port Captains office arriving about 10.00am. At the office, an arguement ensued, about where we should present ourselves first. The staff divided between Immigration first, then Customs, and vice versa, with the majority decision, to much laughter, was Immigration. I asked for directions, and one enthusiastic fellow drew a map, with strict instructions, how find it, 400mts away. His map was wrong, and after retracing our steps 3 times, we were spotted by a Brazillian couple, who recognised distressed gringos, and
asked in perfect English if they could help! Roberto & Brita turned out to be fellow yachties , and insisted on walking us through the procedure, as "our government officials dont work. They only go to socialise, and talk to themselves in airconditioned offices!" After a few enquiries, we found the Immigration offices, NOT, where the map said, but got there at 11.59, only to be told they closed at 12.00, and to come back at 14.00. Roberto then suggested we try the Receita Federal, who might have different lunch hours. They found out where they were and by 12.15 we were there, only to be told to go to the Port Captain first! Roberto explained that we had been there,
and were told otherwise! Then you must go to Policia Federal first. Roberto and Brita, had to leave, but not before they had taken us to a great airconditioned supermarket, where one could buy a good pizza, and enjoy a cold one, before heading back to Immigration. We got back at 13.45, and decided to sit on the wall and one chair in the shade outside the office door, to wait out the 15 minutes. We were chased away in no uncertain terms, and told to come back at 14.00hrs. We could not "Cush" outside ! So we found an overhanging tree which offered some shade, a few hundred metres down the road. We were back at 14.00. The official was now entertaining a fellow official, to much hilarity, so we waited 15 minutes until they were done. At last! After presenting all our documents, he wanted to know where my Xeroxs were. He needed copies of the passport front pages, plus any previous Brazilian entry stamps. I said no problem, copy them! No, they had no xerox, I must copy them and come back. 20 minutes later, we found a Xerox agency, made copies, and schlepped back. We then had to fill in standard arrivals/departure forms, but he then wanted a copy of the Boat Registration Papers. This time he stood up, went upstairs, and came back with the copy! By 14.45 we were back at Receita Federal.We werelucky that Roberto had found the applicable unmarked office door on which to knock! We knocked, and were attended to... for the next two hours! They wanted photographs of the boat which could be attatched to the very bulky file they were preparing. I promised to Email one to him that evening when I got back to the boat.Ricardo was a very nice, ernest, but slow and diligent type. At one stage he asked me for the US dollar value of the boat. I gave him a
realistic figure-- stupid, stupid ! They only want that figure to be able to calculate the fine that they will impose if you should transgress any of the time limits given to you! By 15.45 we were done. He then said that we had to go to Anviso, and then Port Captain. Anviso ? whats that? Department of health for clearance ! No one had mentioned that, and we had assumed that
the Yellow Fever Immunization cards presented with Passports covered that lot! The Port Captains office never mentioned Anviso with their list, so because we were very hot, and tired, we decided to go back there. The official there shuffled our papers, and triumphantly says
"Anviso?". Its now 16.30, and we ask for directions to "Anviso". They are in the City Warf Docks. By 17.00 we get there, only told that they only open at 11.30 next day ! We also know we have greatly exceeded our two hour courtesy stay at the fuel jetty, so catch a bus back to the Mall. We had a great need to chill and relax, so we cast off and sailed to Site Forte, (1 hour) to anchor,and swim, determined to be back at Anviso at 11.30 the next day.
This time, I put 200litres into the tanks, and gave the lad a twenty Real tip, before asking if I could leave the boat again while I completed the formalities! We were at the city warf entrance by 11.20, but the security checks and procedures, before you are given the access card to go to anviso, took another 20 minutes. Eventually we are taken to another very nice man, who just anted to talk! After a while he looked at the Yellow Fever Cards, and says "you dont need these!" , but I do need copies of your pasports, and copies of your boat papers before I can give you the Health Clearance Paper! So its back to the Xerox agency in town, and back to our chatty health officer. Eventually, were are given the important Anviso paper, and head back to the Capitano dos Portos. We got there at 12.15, and were told to come back at 13,30, because they were closed for lunch. The previous day , they had boasted about being open 24hrs a day. I
pointed that out to them. He agreed, but said not to the public! Come back at 13.30! Back to the Supermarket for a Coke and Pizza, and then back to the Port Captain at 13.30.
We got out of there by 14.15, finally legally entitled to enjoy our cruise in Brazil! On the way back, we went past the Receita Federal, to put the boat Photo in Ricardo's hand, and to ask him to explain once again how the rules applied to the boats time in Brazil, as I knew I could not afford to make a mistake. We would be flying back to RSA in March, leaving the boat in a Marina, and returning in May to continue our cruise up the Brazilian Coast. "Please explain exactly what you want me to do !? The rules work like this. The boat may remain in Brazil for three months, same period as immigration visa. If you wish to extend your immigration visa, you must apply 15 days before expiry, with Immigration, and then go to Receita Federal, to request a similar extension for the boat. In my case, by flying out, I will automatically be given a new three month visa, (renewable to 6). The boats time schedule keeps ticking, so I will have to go Back to Receita Federal, and give them a "declaration" that I am flying back to RSA, and leaving the boat behind . They will then "CLOSE" the boat, and the responsibilty is with the Marina in whose care it is left, to make sure it is not used! When I fly back, I will have to go back to Receita Federal, for them to "OPEN" the boat for me for a three month, (renewable to
6) period. When I wish to sail up to Rio, I will need to visit them once again to inform them that I am sailing out of their area of responsibility, and clear out with Port control as well. I then have to check in with Port Control, and Receita Federal there. This procedure applies to entry and
departure to all the Brazilian provinces, as one travels the coast.One can arrange to leave the boat "closed" in Brazil for up to two years. We eventually got back to Site Forte at about 18.00, completely stuffed. The temperature had been in the high 30s, and you are required to wear long pants and smart shirts, using shanks pony for transport between their ivory towers, as a sign of respect ( Please!!). I had a serious case of heat exhaustion, and spent the night shivering and shaking , throwing up any liquids I tried to keep down! And they expect one to respect this
bureaucractic bullshit!
A Final tip. Take 10 photcopies of your passports, any prvious brazilian entry stamps, and your boat papers with you , and unless you speak Portuguese, pray that you are picked up by a pair of friendly angels like Roberto and Brita!
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