Safety for Cruisers

A comment I overheard yesterday from a local Tobagan,directed at a new arrival, prompted me to write this blog, as it helps put things into perspective! It is all too easy to avoid places on hearsay, (and facts, in situations where the prudent cruiser should never find themselves!) One also does not often hear "good "news about safety and crime, so it is with pleasure that I repeat this mans comments at the end of the blog!

We set sail from RSA, with crime in the headlines, Hout Bay battling with renewed outbreaks, World Cup Security worries,while Xenophobia, highjackings, and Rape and card "phishing " are almost uniquely RSA issues. We headed for Brazil, where "City of God", and other films and reports indicated similar levels of violence and crime there, quite apart from Salvador muggings and the murder of 2 cruisers! We were then to head up past Venezuela to the Carribean, where we were warned about "boat Boys", Racial abuse, Dinghy theft, and Piracy, and rip off prices!! Indeed, on the 6th of December, a German crewed yacht, "Triton", was boarded by armed suspected Venzualan pirates 37nm from Trinnidad, en route to Grenada. They were unharmed, but traumatised, and had everything of value stolen or broken(VHF Radio ,SSB), before being allowed to sail on .The news of this incident spread like wildfire, and everyone of the100 plus, Swedish, Danish, Norwegian, Dutch, French cruisers who have arrived in Charlotteville from Cape Verde, ALL decided to avoid Trinidad, and head directly to Grenada from here. One can hardly blame them, and their decision will have a knock on effect with other sailors from those countries.

So, it is well worth reading about his incident on Noonsite, and reading about the manner in which the Trinidadian and Grenadan authorities are planning to take protective measures :Long range VHF radio rreception, Cell phone beacon on the Hibiscus oil rig( mid way between Trinidad/Grenada), Radar cover, and Helicopters on stand by which can cover the route in 30min etc.Trinidad is hugely dependant on its Yachting infrastructure, so it is reassuring ,to see them taking steps to protect it.

We spent time in Salvador and Itaparica, not long after the Cape to Bahia race muggings, and the murder at Itaparica.To us, Itaparica felt very safe and relaxed while we were there. This incident had caused the Brazilian authorities to change the Police staff on the Island, who took a zero tolerance attitude to known criminals. The murderer was identified and arrested very quickly, and the Islanders were all very happy with the new set up! The area between the Old City, the Elevator and Centro Nautica remains a mugging hotspot, but mainly late at night.

But what were our experiences? Yes we avoided known hotspots, avoided late night revelry (ashore), and lifted our dinghy every night. That said, we felt
totally safe and comfortable. The local Brazillians could not have been more helpful , caring and supportive- often going out of their way to show you where to go, when our linguistic abilities failed us! Yes, we did hear of people losing dinghies and outboards, but these were nearly always on mainland harbours ,and near poorer fihing community areas, and, when people did not lift and secure them at night.

We have also met some Brazilians from Vitoria, who have told us about a new "flyjacking" trend, whereby an armed thief jumps into your car at a robot, and orders you under gunpoint, to drive to a particulat ATM, where they force you to reveal your pin, and draw the limit. !0 of their 11 best friends have all been flyjacked, including themselves. Banks have responded by reducing withdrawel limits to $R100 ( R400), at night, with the result that everybody complies, and gets given their cards back!
They also told us of "Busjackings", where armed youths jump on a bus, and rob everyone off all cash and valuables , But,it seams,nobody gets hurt unless they refuse.

We were pleased to see the presence of police patrolling up and down trains all the time, and strong police presence at , and inside all banks, whenever we had to make unavoidable trips into the big smoke! One is aware of a much greater police presence, in general, than I was accustomed to in RSA.

If anyone were to read about the crime situation in RSA before deciding to sail there, nobody would go there!! And yet, so many of the cruisers we have met, who have spent time in RSA, rate it as either "the"highlight, or certainly one of their best stops.In Fareness, it must be pointed out that, these cruisers all stayed in secure marinas from Richards bay to Hout Bay, and hired cars to visit Game Reserves, and other inland beauty spots. The only negative comment came from a German cruiser who complained to a black manager about why it took so long to do a simple job in Africa, and was told, " You whites have got the watch---- but we've got the time!"

We have also heard of a few dinghies and outboards being stolen in French Guyana , and apart from strong currents, muddy water and mosquitos, Surinam receives favouable comment, in terms of safety, shopping, and Hurricane hideout!

And Tobago? In the words of a local Rastafarian musician, named Sqezy, "Tobago Sweet, Tobago Nice, I tell you mon, it Paradise!" Its very laid back, and very relaxed and slow--- nothing will ever get done in a hurry! BUT, after being here nearly 6 weeks, nobody lifts or locks their dinghies, and if a newcomer arrives at the dock, and proceeds to start locking up his dinghy, he is likely to be told what I overheard yesterday.

"Yous wastin yo tahm mon, No need lockin stuff hea, We doan do no shit hea mon!"

How refreshing, and after my time here, I believe him. They are very proud of their reputation , which you will hear confirmed by one and all, including Customs and Immigration! So, we intend to enjoy it a little while longer, before heading North , where careful and sensible vigilence will once again become the order of the day!

Views of Tobago

Snaptails caught in the anchorage!


Pirates Bay Anchorage

Man of War Bay

Fishing Boats at Sunset

Dutch Schooner Eendrag

Charlotteville

Knee-pads, Goggles and Weanies!

All the way up the Brazillian coast, we have found ourselves amongst a 90% French cruising community. Sadly, apart from 2 couples, their English is no better than our non existent French! It makes a change therefore, to be surrounded by Scandinavian Cruisers, who use Tobago as their arrival point in the Carribean, after crossing the Atlantic via the Canaries, and Cape verde. They then work their way North through the islands, before heading home via Bermuda, and the Azores in May /June.

At present, there are mainly Swedes, Danes, and a couple of Norwegians, plus a few Dutch cruisers here. The big difference, is that they all speek good English, so we don't sit around looking like stunned mullet when they talk to you!! But...... they do things a little differently. For the most part, clothing and costumes appear irrelevant on many of their boats! The Ocean crossers are all over brown, with bleached white hair, while their short term guests vary from transparant white, through pink, to bright red..... with white /blond hair! Our Swedish neighbours of 10 days, left for Grenada yesterday, and it was interesting to see their pre departure rituals !

Skipper puts on his knee pads. (He always wears knee pads, and seems to crawl everywhere . He obviously feels naked without them!) He jumped off the stern , wearing his knee pads, to clean the Aries foil, and then got back on board, and made his way up to the anchor locker, before dropping to his knees again. His son , meanwhile, with pink/white/blond girlfriend in attendance, dives over the bow, wearing nothing but black goggles, and proceeds to "inspect" the anchor chain by doing a series off "duck dives". Meanwhile," Knee pads", still on all fours, then starts hauling up anchor with the windlass, leaving his wife at the helm. They all seem oblivious of the boat moving forward along the chain, to within a metre of the boat in front of them,lying on top of their anchor. "Goggles" proceeds to pull himself up the chain, until he is hanging from the bowsprit, and with bare arse and weenie flapping in the breeze, proceeds to try and push the other boat away with his feet! No sign of fenders: no calling out to the other boat....just skipper on his knees driving the windlass, and the goggle wearing weenie flapper using his feet to stop the crunch! Mom continues to steer, and girlfriend admires! Eventually, the anchor breaks the surface, and goggle man drops down on to it in a scrubbing frenzy. In this fashion the boats works its way to a point 100mts outside the anchorage, and then everyone jumps overboard for a last swim, around the drifting boat! Fortunately there are no sudden gusts, and they manage to re -assemble on deck to now start preparing for departure;.... to lash down the dinghy, to clear the deck of loose gear etc etc. An hour until they are all set, and start slowly motoring on course towards Grenada. Two hours later, as the sun starts promising another lovely sunset, we watch them still slowly rocking and rolling along, without any sign of sails!

Bon Voyage folk!! Good luck in Prickly Bay!