Aneityum Tumas gudfala island

30 September 2015

It is the most southern island in Vanuatu, and only about 480 nautical miles from Fiji, but it is not a point of entry into Vanuatu. To visit, one has to have made special application with the authorities in Port Villa, (which is readily given!), and then check in with the local policeman, and pay your initial entry fees to him! (10 000 Vatu, +/- R1250)

It is however, well worth making the effort, as it was quite one of the nicest anchorages, and islands we have visited for a long, long time!

The trip down, although short, was very different from that suggested by weather guru Bob! As he always points out, “weather is a function of systems combined with chaos!” We had a bit more chaos than system!  We also had, for one day, the glassiest and calmest windless day we have ever experienced! The rest was a mixed bag!

Once inside the anchorage, and behind the reef and Mystery Island, it all opens up into a really special place!

There is a school, a police station, a bank, and a basic trading co-op store. The bank and the police station were donated by foreign aid, which is clearly the main source of GDP.

The ruins of John Geddes church, wiped out by a tsunami in the 1800's

The local language is Bislama, which is a form of ‘pidgin English”, very reminiscent of Aussie Aboriginal English, and only has a vocabulary of around 2500 words……… the most  common of which seems to be “blong”, which has a very wide range of applications! The signs and notices were delightful and quaint. The Lonely Planet’s Guide gives a few examples!!

I just have to share a few!

  A conference                   Toktok togeta

I don’t understand            Mi no save

What is your name            Wanem nem blong yu?

Contraceptive                  meresin blong blokem pikkaninni

Diarrhea                             sitsit wota

Condom                              rubba blong f-k f-k !!!

 broken                                bagarap       

             

A key attraction in Aneityum, is the Mystery Island (Inyeug island), which is reputed to be inhabited by spirits, and as such, is uninhabited . It is, however, the main tourist attraction , with cruise liners delivering thousands of tourists every Tuesday and Thursday. Yachties like ourselves, are lucky enough to have the entire island to ourselves on every other day, and as such, deserves a blog of its own!

Mystery Island

Farewell to Fiji

22 September 2015

We had been in Fiji for 3 months, and it was time to get moving once again!  But before we left Blue Lagoon, up in the Yasawa’s,  Mary and Chris took a  2 hour walk over the Nanunya Island to Lo’s Tea House, for tea and chocolate cake! Steve and I elected to do a bit of boat work, and wait for the girls at the resort’s pub, at Happy Hour!

Overlooking the anchorage en route to Lo's Teahouse

Rod wants one of these......and he'll give Mary the free bracelet!!

A very enterprising local farmer peddling his fruit and veg to appreciative cruisers.

We had a last “Lovo and Meke” evening together, (earth oven feast, and traditional dance) for the Saturday night. It was more expensive, ($100 per head, +/- R600 each), but the food, dancing, and general  ambience, were much better than the one at Coral View, and a whole lot of fun! All the performers are local villagers, and resort staff, with $20 of each fee going to the villagers.

Chris and Rod in the mood!

Mary's favourite!

 As Mary and I needed to say cheers to Jaqui and Walter (JeanMarie) in Mololo Lai Lai, we set off back down the Yasawa’s, stopping  for a night each at Naviti, and Waya south, before spending a couple of days at the beautiful, uninhabited island anchorage, Navadra, in the Mamanucas. We shared the anchorage with the superyacht, “Encore”, and enjoyed some good coral snorkeling and sunsets!

Our leg back to Mololo Lai Lai the following day was disrupted by an unscheduled southerly blast, that made conditions horrible….. so we turned tail, and headed back to the more protected Waya South anchorage for the night. No sooner had we anchored, than conditions returned to normal, and we had yet another lovely evening and sunset!

It was a good call, and our trip the next day, in flat calm conditions, allowed us to pick an interesting route through the other Mamanuca islands, past Mana, and back to Mololo, via the northern entrance.

We then spent a couple of days there, filling up with diesel, doing the washing, enjoying the Dollar bar, before enjoying a good fast sail back to  the calm and “free”, Saweni Bay!

Waiting for the bus

Sugar cane train

Early morning reflections in Saweni

ANOTHER sunset

 “Scott Free”, had meanwhile returned from Blue Lagoon, and stopped  at Draquawa island to swim with the Manta rays. From there they went to Denarau, to do there refueling, as the Musket Cove regatta was in full swing. They then joined us in Saweni, with the intention of clearing out together, before heading for Vanuatu .

Once again, the weather went pearshaped, so we had to wait for the next window.  We decided to head back to Denarau. 

With Steve and Chris enjoying drinks at the Denarau Rhum Ba

Nadi Market

Early morning rugby.....England vs Fiji

We had not been there before and we would then be able to watch the England vs Fiji RWC opening match, which England managed to win quite well, …….. unlike the Bafanaboks vs Japan, whose efforts , with the added, and increasingly vocal support of our ANC rulers, are becoming more and more like Bafana Bafana in terms of results!  Lets hope they can get back to playing rugby!

 From Denarau, it was back to Lautoka, to clear out. We anchored off the wharf around 8.00am, and it took a ridiculous 3 ½ hours for the single incredibly slow, but  v e  r  y   polite official, to stamp and staple our pre filled documents, thereafter informing us that we were not only free to go…….. but must go now, and not stop at any islands on the way!

That time wasting scuppered our plans to anchor off the Navula passage ,in Momi Bay, ready for an early morning exit through the pass, so we anchored again at Denarau, just before dark, only managing to clear the passage around 14.00hr the next day.

Hell…..don’t we just love inefficient bureaucrats!