Tuesday, December 1, 2015

Down Under in Bundy



Since our arrival in Aussie, we seem to have been missioning non-stop on boat jobs!! In between, however, we had enough time to meet, see, and appreciate some of the many advantages of life in Australia, and Queensland in particular!


The trip over to Bundaberg is generally the shortest and easiest route. Once cleared in, those wishing to head south, can pick decent weather, and stop overs, along an interesting coast. This year, many of the cruisers elected to join the Down Under Rally to Newcastle, which offered a week’s free mooring, plus proximity to Sydney. This trip is generally longer by 3 days, and can run the risk of running into southerlies.
Our decision was based more on the proximity to Brisbane, (from where we fly out en route to Cape Town), together with the safe dry storage option in Bundaberg  through the cyclone season.


Both are Ports of Entry, and some of the stories relating to the “horrors” of Australian check-in personnel and procedures are frightening! In reality, they have probably been blown out of all proportion, based upon a few clots who were silly. We, and those of the friends with whom we have chatted, found the officials all totally professional and courteous. The only inexcusable issue, in my mind, is the $380 Bio Security fee, levied whether one is compliant, or not!
The fees/fines for non- compliance are truly draconian!
Certainly, this is one of the main reasons why so many cruisers are now avoiding Australia, and going on to Indonesia directly.  
In our case, however, because we have booked to haul out for 4 months, we are being refunded that amount by the Marina! Nevertheless, our fee for the haul out and return, power wash down, cleanup, chocking, cradling and tie down and storage for the 4 months, in high security storage, will be Aus $2950.

Not Sheer, but showing the travellift.......in 2 days time for us!
Bundaberg city is about 20km from the port, and the marina run a free courtesy bus there each day which makes shopping quite easy. Having bought a new Lofrans 1500w12v windlass motor in Noumea, for about half the US or Aussie price, my first task was to track down 18mts of 50mm2 copper cable, plus a 135A circuit breaker. Both were found, but were heavy on both back pack and pocket! Removing all the old 24v wiring, and the fancy 12v/24v switch, and then leading the new much heavier wiring all the way from the batteries to the windlass was not easy, and took 2-3 days, with a few hiccoughs along the way!  Eg. New 12v  control solenoid from Noumea was a dud!

Windlass all up and running!

In the end, we have a better and safer set up, with less connections, which sounds very sweet! Hope it stands the test of time!!
The next big project was to contact Raymarine Australia in respect of my auto pilot hydraulic ram, which had failed again on the trip from Noumea. Given my previous experiences with Raymarine (Caribbean, US support and New Zealand), I was not overly optimistic. What a pleasant surprise!! Raymarine Australia referred me to Dave, of Rampant Marine, who is their agent in Bundaberg. He came around the next day, tested the unit, confirmed the terminal nature of the failure, and told Raymarine that I needed a complete replacement. Three days later it was delivered! The next day was spent installing the new unit, and we are “sweet as, and good to go”, as the say here!


Today he came by to inspect and approve the installation, and when I thanked him for his efficiency, and restoring some of my lost faith in Raymarine… he answered in true Aussie style, “No worries mate”! He will be visiting “Sheer” when she is in storage, to address and fix the other two Raymarine problems we have, which are software problems!  1) A  new A67chartplotter that will only measure distance in statute miles, and not nautical miles, and  2), an AIS that keeps “losing” close range targets!  
We also experienced another bit of good Aussie customer service! We had purchased a new Epson scanner/printer from Dick Smith in New Zealand. This unit failed in Fiji, within a months, and refused to work with new cartridges. Seeing a Dick Smith in Bundaberg, we dumped the useless unit off with them, and asked if Epson would remedy the problem. We had to track down the original invoice, which Dick Smith Australia helped us to do, and once presented to the Bundaberg branch, they gave us a full credit, even though there is no “trans ditch agreement” with Dick Smith New Zealand. We will be using the credit to buy a new Brother scanner/printer from them in March, when we get back.
Two other items on the boat were looking tired: cockpit flooring which did not take kindly to a petrol spill, and the saloon table which took some abuse during our canvas sewing efforts! 




The table was stripped, and re-varnished with 6 coats, and we found in Bunnings, a super outdoor, marine, non-slip carpet! Bunnings, to those of you who don’t know, is simply one of the best hardware shops in the world!!! I could get lost in a Bunnings for weeks at a time, exploring their enormous range of products, and trying to justify to Mary why I need so many new tools and gadgets!
During the course of all our bus travels, we also became aware of quite how well Australia cater for their ageing population. The climate in Queensland is very inviting, and numerous people choose to retire “up the coast”. The facilities, retirement villages, transport systems, concessions, clinic, hospitals, recreational parks, walkways, etc are so very good.
Yes, Bundaberg probably do have a slightly above average problem in respect of “Australia’s growing obesity crisis” (a common newspaper, magazine, and radio theme here), but the quality of life is good, and the country works!



When the last PM was accused of poor management, and nepotism, he was voted out and replaced! Crime, bad driving, and litter are not accepted. Farmers use honesty boxes! People don’t lock everything, and live in fear.
In all truth, I could adjust to living here very easily……. If, they would take us…. And if we could afford it!! Two impossibly big “Ifs”!

Fishing is a must....wherever you are!








The more I read about South Africa’s decline, Zuma, Malema, the EEF, the joke that is parliament, the corruption, theft, crime, nepotism, thug politics, threats, racism, “ANC more important than country”, the economy, Rand /dollar et al, and the opinions of intelligent foreign analysts and commentators, the more depressed I get about our longer term future there.  At least we will be able to see for ourselves very shortly!
Another real privilege of our staying in Bundaberg Marina, is the huge seafood depot next door, and the availability of reasonably priced seafood. For $30, a cooked and prepared seafood platter for two, (too much for Mary and I to finish), will be delivered to your boat.

Our treat.......seafood platter!

Spanner crab.....local delicacy

Moreton Bay Bug.....delicious!
Our platter contained  the following:
2 x Spanner crabs, 2 x Moreton Bugs( Slipper lobsters rather like crayfish), 600gms king size Banana prawns, plus a whole smoked trout, lemon wedges and seafood dip.


Another surprise was the Christmas Party, (costing $90 per person, but to which Marina guests were invited free). It had a Hawaiian theme, and included free drinks, beer, wine, and cocktails, numerous pre supper snacks, prawn platters, garlic pizza’s, sausage rolls etc, followed by a choice of roasts (lamb,beef,pork), with excellent veggies.



The live music singer was also very good, with a huge repertoire, and although we retired like the old fossils we are at 10.45pm, it went on until about 1.00am.

Our final adventure was a visit to the Bundaberg Rum distillery, which has been in operation for over 120 years, and is now owned by Diageo, the world’s largest distributor of spirits and liquors.



We've been enjoying it on ice!
The Health and Safety regulations for visitors were completely anal! We couldn’t imagine how the Aussies would handle a Mt Yasur tour. It would probably be a no go zone!
No cameras, cell phones or even watches permitted , in case a spark from a battery ignited the alcohol fumes!!  Did not stop the guides wearing their watches or carrying walkie talkies!
Hence no photo’s! Apart from that, it was a good experience, and the tastings were most enjoyable. In particular, the Royal Liqueur was exceptionally decadent! A fusion of coffee, chocolate, vanilla and rum! Too bad that we can’t bring any home, as it is not sold in the duty free shops!
We now have 2 more days, before we are hauled out, and prepare “Sheer” for her 4 months dry storage.

Sheer's home for the next 4 months!
 We have to move into a motel for Friday to Sunday, from where we catch a 4.00am taxi to the airport on Monday, to start our long awaited flight home.

Still time for one last kilo of cooked prawns for $20 before we leave!!



Thursday, November 19, 2015

Tanna to Bundaberg, Australia

15/11/2015

Scott-Free leaving Port Resolution........smooth sailing!!

After a fantastic Mt Yasur experience, and a pleasant stay in Port Resolution, we had hoped for a good weather break, to head for New Cal. But the SE winds and seas built up, and pinned us in for a week to 10 days longer than we had intended.
 Steve and I had looked at the weather ahead, and thought that a Thursday/ Friday trip would be ok. I sent emails to Bob McDavitt, and Dave (Gulf Harbour Radio) asking their opinions, saying we thought  “sooner looked better than later” and received mixed messages in return! Bob said wait till Monday, and Dave said boisterous but do-able! We decided to wait till the Monday. On the Sunday we got another mail from Bob saying  “You were right, sooner would have been better, but it is do-able!”

Mt Yasur giving us a send off!
 So we set off on one of the bumpiest, wildest and wettest 2 day passages of our sailing adventures! At 25 knots the wind was not too bad, but the seas were big and uncomfortable, (between 3.5 to 4.5mts on the beam), and that was once we made it round the southern corner of Tanna, and could crack off a bit towards the top of Mare (the bottom island of the Loyalty Island group,  90nm to the East of New Cal)


As we reached the shelter of Mare, the wind died, and the sea flattened, for about a 10mile respite, before we emerged from the lee, and faced 25knot winds, and 3mt swells on the nose. After about 7 miles, we lost the island effect, and got back to a more manageable point of sail, only to face a new challenge -  how to slow down enough to arrive at 5.00am (first light), outside the Havannah Pass, with 3 hours of incoming tide left, and thus avoiding the horrible conditions caused by outgoing tide against wind and waves!

Sheer Tenacity going through the Havannah Passage
We had 20-25 knots on the beam, with a 1.8knot current mainly in our favour, and we only needed to maintain a speed of 3.6knots! With sails reduced to minimum,  we virtually “ferry glided “ our last 60miles ,with our “heading” being 40 degrees higher than our COG (course over ground), and still had to put in an extra tack to waste time!  



Through the Havannah Passage with Scott-Free in the lead!
As dawn broke, we pushed through the passage in the company of a cruiseliner doing 19 knots, and everything was just cool! 

The Havannah passage is about 50 miles from Port Moselle in Noumea, but we had no intention of going the whole way, arriving amongst a shed load of boats in the dark! We had picked out a very nice anchorage, just off the Canal Wodin, at about the half way point, and were very happy to drop the hook there around noon. It was flat, and calm, and peaceful…. what bliss!  After a few hours sleep, it was great to share a happy hour with Scott- Free, compare stories, and agree on a 9.00h departure time for the morning!

Peaceful anchorage in Canal Wodin on the way to Port Moselle
Officially, one is not allowed to do what we did, but it does seem common practice, and, given the geography, I think the French authorities turn a blind eye to it. They have camera’s along the way, and can see what you are up to anyway!

Ilot Porc-e -pic



Entering Noumea Harbour
As things turned out, the Port Moselle authorities were very laid back, and when we made contact , asking for a spot on the visitors pontoon to check in, they said “no worries”, full right now, so drop an anchor outside, and contact us tomorrow when we should have some space! 

Port Moselle, ST and SF bow to bow!
This we did, and the whole process was an absolute pleasure….. and FREE! Everything is within walking distance, and we were even allowed to go ashore to go shopping before we were checked in!!
They try to allow one 3 days on the marina, but we ended up staying there for about 10 days, until we checked out!

Angelfish under he boat
Typically excellent French dinghy dock at the marina



Healthy coral reef right in the marina


 We loved New Cal, the supermarkets and wide ranges of food and wine , the fresh produce  markets, and especially the fantastic fish market right on our door step!






Sashimi quality Yellowfin and Bluefin tuna, Wahoo, Mahi Mahi, plus a huge range of  both line fish and netted catches, for the same price as mincemeat!
It was also great to catch up with a number of other cruisers we had met along the way, who were now all preparing for their Aussie or NZ legs to get out of the cyclone belt.
Kanak carving in a nearby park


We would love to have spent at least 2 more months exploring New Cal, (cutting out some of Fiji), but it was getting late in the season, and we had plane tickets booked and paid for….. so we were weather watching, and looking for a good window to head for Bundaberg, Australia. And as so often happens, one pops up earlier than expected, but looked too good to ignore!
So it was a rushed and serious bottom clean, (to comply with anal Aussie rules), a quick and painless clearing out, some hurried good byes, stowage , and off!

Port Captain's premises


Saddest of all, was saying  “Cheers” to  Scott-Free, with whom we have sailed over 10 000nm since Grenada.  We were heading for Bundaberg, a haul out, and a home visit via Brisbane /Singapore/ Jhb/Cape Town, and they were heading  down to Newcastle to explore the NSW/Sydney and southern areas, which we had covered by road last year.

Farewell Scott-Free! 


A family wedding is complicating their next year’s plans, but we do hope to do much of the Whitsundays together, before they head back in July. Who knows……sailing plans are always very flexible!
 We left New Cal via the Dumbea pass, in superb conditions, and had a good first day out on the 890nm passage….. 

Dumbea Pass, with surfers in the background


Then the autopilot packed up, and we had to call on trusty little rubber band  “Fredlet”, to see us through for the next 750miles! The wind eased up more than anticipated, which we were happy about, as it forced  us to motorsail a lot more,  reducing  the load on “Fredlet”. Once again, he saved our bacon, not missing a beat all the way to Bundaberg. Once again, “a good little old one, beats a big new expensive Raymarine  one!”

Fredlet, we love you!



Smoked salmon and wasabi cream cheese for lunch


Last night at sea before arrival in Australia
We rounded the safe water buoy north of Fraser Island spit at midnight, and approached the Bundaberg channel markers at first light, making for an easy and relaxed entry onto the Bundaberg port marina quarantine dock. There, we were met by courteous, friendly, and efficient Aussie officials…. A far cry from the fearful stories we had all heard about!