"Angra Dos Reis is an easy point of entry". So says Marcel Ceccon on p107 of his otherwise excellent Brazilian Cruising Guide. Like Hell it IS !!!! It took two full days, left us totally underwhelmed with Brazillian bureaucracy, suffering from genuine heatstroke, and utterly amazed that such a friendly, and charming people, living in paradise, can put up with such an innefficient government service! Shut up Rod--what do you think you have got in RSA?!!
The guide says step 1, visit Capitano dos Portos, stp 2, Policia Federal ( Immigration), step 3, Receita Federal ( Customs).Quite straight forward. This was our experience.
We sailed to the new Piratas Mall Marina, about two miles out of Angra,moored at the fuel jetty, and took a taxi to the Port Captains office arriving about 10.00am. At the office, an arguement ensued, about where we should present ourselves first. The staff divided between Immigration first, then Customs, and vice versa, with the majority decision, to much laughter, was Immigration. I asked for directions, and one enthusiastic fellow drew a map, with strict instructions, how find it, 400mts away. His map was wrong, and after retracing our steps 3 times, we were spotted by a Brazillian couple, who recognised distressed gringos, and
asked in perfect English if they could help! Roberto & Brita turned out to be fellow yachties , and insisted on walking us through the procedure, as "our government officials dont work. They only go to socialise, and talk to themselves in airconditioned offices!" After a few enquiries, we found the Immigration offices, NOT, where the map said, but got there at 11.59, only to be told they closed at 12.00, and to come back at 14.00. Roberto then suggested we try the Receita Federal, who might have different lunch hours. They found out where they were and by 12.15 we were there, only to be told to go to the Port Captain first! Roberto explained that we had been there,
and were told otherwise! Then you must go to Policia Federal first. Roberto and Brita, had to leave, but not before they had taken us to a great airconditioned supermarket, where one could buy a good pizza, and enjoy a cold one, before heading back to Immigration. We got back at 13.45, and decided to sit on the wall and one chair in the shade outside the office door, to wait out the 15 minutes. We were chased away in no uncertain terms, and told to come back at 14.00hrs. We could not "Cush" outside ! So we found an overhanging tree which offered some shade, a few hundred metres down the road. We were back at 14.00. The official was now entertaining a fellow official, to much hilarity, so we waited 15 minutes until they were done. At last! After presenting all our documents, he wanted to know where my Xeroxs were. He needed copies of the passport front pages, plus any previous Brazilian entry stamps. I said no problem, copy them! No, they had no xerox, I must copy them and come back. 20 minutes later, we found a Xerox agency, made copies, and schlepped back. We then had to fill in standard arrivals/departure forms, but he then wanted a copy of the Boat Registration Papers. This time he stood up, went upstairs, and came back with the copy! By 14.45 we were back at Receita Federal.We werelucky that Roberto had found the applicable unmarked office door on which to knock! We knocked, and were attended to... for the next two hours! They wanted photographs of the boat which could be attatched to the very bulky file they were preparing. I promised to Email one to him that evening when I got back to the boat.Ricardo was a very nice, ernest, but slow and diligent type. At one stage he asked me for the US dollar value of the boat. I gave him a
realistic figure-- stupid, stupid ! They only want that figure to be able to calculate the fine that they will impose if you should transgress any of the time limits given to you! By 15.45 we were done. He then said that we had to go to Anviso, and then Port Captain. Anviso ? whats that? Department of health for clearance ! No one had mentioned that, and we had assumed that
the Yellow Fever Immunization cards presented with Passports covered that lot! The Port Captains office never mentioned Anviso with their list, so because we were very hot, and tired, we decided to go back there. The official there shuffled our papers, and triumphantly says
"Anviso?". Its now 16.30, and we ask for directions to "Anviso". They are in the City Warf Docks. By 17.00 we get there, only told that they only open at 11.30 next day ! We also know we have greatly exceeded our two hour courtesy stay at the fuel jetty, so catch a bus back to the Mall. We had a great need to chill and relax, so we cast off and sailed to Site Forte, (1 hour) to anchor,and swim, determined to be back at Anviso at 11.30 the next day.
This time, I put 200litres into the tanks, and gave the lad a twenty Real tip, before asking if I could leave the boat again while I completed the formalities! We were at the city warf entrance by 11.20, but the security checks and procedures, before you are given the access card to go to anviso, took another 20 minutes. Eventually we are taken to another very nice man, who just anted to talk! After a while he looked at the Yellow Fever Cards, and says "you dont need these!" , but I do need copies of your pasports, and copies of your boat papers before I can give you the Health Clearance Paper! So its back to the Xerox agency in town, and back to our chatty health officer. Eventually, were are given the important Anviso paper, and head back to the Capitano dos Portos. We got there at 12.15, and were told to come back at 13,30, because they were closed for lunch. The previous day , they had boasted about being open 24hrs a day. I
pointed that out to them. He agreed, but said not to the public! Come back at 13.30! Back to the Supermarket for a Coke and Pizza, and then back to the Port Captain at 13.30.
We got out of there by 14.15, finally legally entitled to enjoy our cruise in Brazil! On the way back, we went past the Receita Federal, to put the boat Photo in Ricardo's hand, and to ask him to explain once again how the rules applied to the boats time in Brazil, as I knew I could not afford to make a mistake. We would be flying back to RSA in March, leaving the boat in a Marina, and returning in May to continue our cruise up the Brazilian Coast. "Please explain exactly what you want me to do !? The rules work like this. The boat may remain in Brazil for three months, same period as immigration visa. If you wish to extend your immigration visa, you must apply 15 days before expiry, with Immigration, and then go to Receita Federal, to request a similar extension for the boat. In my case, by flying out, I will automatically be given a new three month visa, (renewable to 6). The boats time schedule keeps ticking, so I will have to go Back to Receita Federal, and give them a "declaration" that I am flying back to RSA, and leaving the boat behind . They will then "CLOSE" the boat, and the responsibilty is with the Marina in whose care it is left, to make sure it is not used! When I fly back, I will have to go back to Receita Federal, for them to "OPEN" the boat for me for a three month, (renewable to
6) period. When I wish to sail up to Rio, I will need to visit them once again to inform them that I am sailing out of their area of responsibility, and clear out with Port control as well. I then have to check in with Port Control, and Receita Federal there. This procedure applies to entry and
departure to all the Brazilian provinces, as one travels the coast.One can arrange to leave the boat "closed" in Brazil for up to two years. We eventually got back to Site Forte at about 18.00, completely stuffed. The temperature had been in the high 30s, and you are required to wear long pants and smart shirts, using shanks pony for transport between their ivory towers, as a sign of respect ( Please!!). I had a serious case of heat exhaustion, and spent the night shivering and shaking , throwing up any liquids I tried to keep down! And they expect one to respect this
bureaucractic bullshit!
A Final tip. Take 10 photcopies of your passports, any prvious brazilian entry stamps, and your boat papers with you , and unless you speak Portuguese, pray that you are picked up by a pair of friendly angels like Roberto and Brita!
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