Antigua, and Kate’s visit gone in a flash!

                24/3/2012

After our boisterous romp from Deshaies to Falmouth, we had a couple of days to check in at Nelsons Dockyard, and learn a little about Antigua before Kate’s arrival.

We then took a taxi out to the airport, which is in the North and at the opposite end of the island from Falmouth. What an island of contrasts!

We drove past the brand new Viv Richards Cricket Stadium, financed and built by China, and passed the “China Town”, which seems to be the legacy of all China’s Caribbean benevolence. We had seen the same pattern in other islands where China has financed and built, using Chinese labour, harbours, fish markets, jetties and markets, as well as the roadworks in Dominica. Right now there is a big issue in Antigua over the fact that the Chinese are paying all the fishermen over the set prices for lobster, buying up the islands entire catch, and shipping them out by the container load. Same old recipe! Exploit a species, drive it to the brink of extinction, to push up prices, build a monopoly, and milk the rewards! If that’s what they are doing here, I am pretty sure that they are doing the same in the other Caribbean islands in which they have left their “workers”!

The airport approach is through magnificent gardens, hotels, and another brand new cricket stadium. These developments were part of Alan Stamford plans to revitalize West Indies Cricket, using regional Twenty –Twenty cricket to attract and discover new talent. The stadium is named after him, and it all looks very impressive. Sadly, however, it seems that his methods of raising finance from investors left much to be desired, and he is now fighting legal battles to avoid  a lengthy period in jail. A grand vision turned sour.

NELSONS DOCKYARD

LEANDER

The taxi ride back gave Kate an overview of the islands extremes…the run down airport, the new and impressive stadiums, the local homes and corner pubs, back down to Falmouth with the incredible number of Superyachts on show! We later walked over to Nelsons Dockyard in English Harbour, where a number of the magnificent Classic yachts and Classic replica’s were gathering for Antigua classic sailing week. Another impressive motor yacht (ship!!), was the” Leander”, which was on loan to the Royal Family for a State Visit, by Prince Edward and his wife Sophia, to various Caribbean states.

ZEPHIRO

“Zephiro”, Gerhard Reuters  impressive new Southern Wind  100 foot yacht  arrived and anchored beside us. Twice in as many days, my services were called upon to get them out the dwang! Firstly, a 25knot breeze came up suddenly, and Zephiro started dragging its anchor, while Gerhard, the skipper and guests were having dinner ashore. Left on board were his two Burmese crew, who yelled to me, “ Please help, we are sliding!”  I got them to let out another 80 foot of chain. The extra chain did the job, and the anchor re-set. I then went to the restaurant, to alert Gerhard and the skipper to the problem. The following day, I noticed the Zephiro tender, drifting away in the wind, with Gerhard and guests on board, and an engine which they could not start. Once again….Rod to the rescue!

VIEW FROM SHIRLEY HEIGHTS

The next day, by way of thanks, Gerhard and Regina came over bearing gifts of wine, T-shirts, and an invitation to join them for the famous Sunday night Music and Barbecue up on Shirley Heights.  All gifts were graciously accepted, and we all enjoyed a wonderful evening together, watching the sun set over Falmouth and English Harbours, enjoying the Pan music, Reggae, spare ribs, and Rum!  

We sailed around to Jolly Harbour, Five Islands Bay, to Deep Bay, enjoying the turquoise waters, numerous beaches, and some wreck diving.

DIVING "ANDES" IN DEEP BAY

At the same time one cannot help noticing the low level of tourism in the Caribbean, and the number of empty hotels, closed shops, premises to let, and developments where everything has a “For Sale” notice. Clearly, the global financial crisis has exacerbated the problems here, In Jolly Harbour, for example, one could have a choice of any number of waters edge condominiums( each with their own mooring dock in front), for between  US $230 000 to $280 000. The massive Casino there stands unused and shut down. In other respects, prices just seem to be increased to compensate for the lack of business. A beer will cost between US $5 and $8, and a hamburger about $30. In addition there is a 15% tax, and a 10% service charge! There seems little attempt to attract new business by way of daily specials, or Happy Hours, which are common in St Maarten, or Grenada.

As a cruising ground, however, Antigua is right up near the top, with its blend of history, anchorages, beaches, coral reefs, and bays to explore. On top of that, Barbuda is only 30 miles away.

Kate’s two weeks, sadly passed in a flash, but she returned home to RSA a more relaxed, suntanned and happier young lady!  She is looking forward to her new job, knowing that she did well at Merrill Lynch, but confident that in her new job, she will be able to restore a little more balance to her life, and do more of the things she wants to do.