ARUBA

 
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Main St, Oranjestad

The “A” of the ABC’s, and the third of the Netherland Antilles, which are each so very different! Aruba is a self ruled protectorate of Netherlands, and once mined gold, has its own oil and refinery, (hence the massive American presence during the Cuban crisis, and the resulting enormous American tourism business.) The airport has one terminal for itself and the rest of the world, and one for US citizens!                                                           

Pink confection!

 We were encouraged to go to Aruba for two reasons…….

1) It would cut down the duration of our trip along the  sometimes hairy passage to Santa Marta by 80 miles, and                   

2), The northern end of the island is a beautiful diving and snorkelling area.

However, Oct 1^st saw the introduction of some really stupid new rules, imposed by bureaucrats with either a resentment of cruising yachts, or at best, a total lack of understanding. Unless things change, Aruba will stop being a destination for cruising yachts.

A yacht may no longer check in or out in the capital, Oranjestad where they tend to anchor. They have to check in at the dirty, inadequately set up commercial port of Barcadera. They may not anchor first, and go in by bus to check in or out, but must present the yacht for inspection.

Barcadera commercial port and clear in place for all yachts

 There are 3 jetties. One for ships and freighters with deep drafts, one for vessels with 7-10ft drafts full of Venezuelan traders, and one for yachts and boats with 6 ft draft, also usually full of Venezuelan fishing boats. This last jetty is on the other side of a shallow reef, which lies about 50ft off the jetty. I had to go behind the reef, do a 180 deg turn within the 50ft  channel, in a 20 knot crosswind, and slot into a 40ft gap between two fishing boats.

Never have I had to spin “Sheer Tenacity” using her reverse prop walk to port, together with bursts of full ahead to starboard , (and get it right first time) in so tight a space before. Nor is anyone on hand to take a line on the jetty which is 5ft higher than our deck! With our hearts in our mouths, we got it right, and had a whole 20cm under the keel as we made fast along side. It was nearly enough to make me rethink the need for a bow thruster, which so many Shearwater 39’s have chosen to fit!

Clearing out at Barcadera

 The 2^nd really stupid new rule in Aruba, involves one having to declare the yacht itself, for “Temporary Importation”. This has to be done if you wish to stay for more than 5 days, even though Immigration have granted

one permission to stay 90 days. There is no duty, or fee for this Temporary Importation, provided the boat is in Aruba for less than 180 days………But …..one has to employ an Agent, at a cost of $65 US , to fill in a form  for Customs, with exactly the same information you have already given to them, confirming that you will not be staying in Aruba for 180 days, and would only like  to stay a few more days than five!!

We said “stuff the agent and his $65, we will stay for 5 days!” But, what happens, we asked, if the weather turns foul, and we can’t leave on day 6? Talk to us, and we will allow you to stay until the weather clears. Super!

Last Question? Can we check out on Wednesday (our last day), sail up to Malmok in the north, anchor for the night, and leave at 5am in the morning, to simplify our departure?

“No, when you check out you must leave immediately”

Why?  Most countries give you 24 hrs to leave?

“That is the law. I will ask the boss if you can do what you request, because I also think it is a stupid law.”

Sadly, the boss was a typical bureaucrat, used his very best thinking said …..“NO!”

This is the 3^rd bit of stupid thinking on their part, and is sure to stop yachts contributing to the economy of Aruba for much longer.

This single act made it impossible for us to follow the often sailed 78 mile leg from Aruba to Cabo de Vela (in Colombia), and arrive in daylight  to anchor for the night. Either one has to approach and anchor at night, or sail on by!   

So back we went to the  airport anchorage, where the non stop screaming of jet engines is only interrupted by the lower level  rumbling of fast ferry boats, with their 4 ft wakes, ferrying hotel guests between the Renaissance Hotel and the hotel’s private beach resort.

All in all, we started to run out of goodwill towards Aruba, thanks entirely to the bureaucrats. The island has quite a lot to offer cruising yachts otherwise!!

4 official languages on this public bus sign

 We did manage to squeeze in a trip by bus down to San Nicholas in the south, and visit the famous Charlies Bar, popularized by all the Americans sent over to protect the refinery. Its quite a pub!

Chris, Steve,Rod and Mary adding to the clutter!

We went on to have a really great sea food lunch, at a restaurant called Zee Rover, aimed mainly at the local market. It was a simple formula and represented great value. All the seafood you choose is weighed, and sealed in a bag for the chef to cook up (deep fry!!) in an open kitchen, and is served within 10 minute of ordering. We ordered a portion of Baracuda, a portion of Wahoo, and 2 portions of prawns. 

We ended up with 4 big crosscuts, 2 of each fish, and a bucket of prawns. As side dishes we had fried plantains ( humungus bananas, which one finds throughout the Caribbean, used as a vegetable, rather than a fruit), plus a pile of chips….. and the cost? About R180 for the 4 of us!

Zee-Rover fishermen's restaurant

This little day outing did much to restore our Wa!

The following day, we took a bus North, and explored the “High Rise Hotel” district, Eagle beach, and Malmok. High Rise Hotel area (that’s really what it’s called!), looks a bit like Sun City by the sea…. Maybe that’s an exaggeration, but it is the Americans Hotel and Condo Capital of Aruba….. not a place where cruisers would choose to spend time and relax!

The shopping mall complex was wall to wall jewelry shops, Boutiques, up market expensive restaurants etc, and all the stuff cruising folk do their best to avoid!

Malmok looked wonderful, and would have been a lovely quiet anchorage, with no shops, no tourists, no jet skies, clean water, and good diving!

Malmok where we would loved have spent some time..............if only!

 Eagle Beach was not bad, but was aimed at the more budget orientated US tourists. The open beach was a forest of palm frond umbrellas and recliners, costing about $20 US per person. Beer in cans, cost $5 US a pop. Huge pizzas were also available for a small bond, but, despite that, a quick glance at the average tourists there would indicate a major marketing opportunity, or challenge, for Fit for Life!…… I have found better ways to spend a day!  

             

Overdressed on Eagle Beach

Definitely time to leave!!   One last stock up shop….. and wow…. A huge big supermarket, called Lings, and affiliated to the IGA group,

proved to be the very best Supermarket we have seen anywhere in the Caribbean! First world selections and choices, with first world prices too! But what a treat!

Green iguana at Renaissance Marina

Perhaps a few days more in Aruba would have changed our thinking, and encouraged us to spend more time , and money there….. sorry bureaucrats…. You blew it for us, and probably many others, for years to come!