San Blas Islands

03 /01/2013

Isla Pinos...We arrive in Kuna Yala country

The closest checking in point for us would have been Obaldia, some 100 miles from Tintipan. The bay is however open to the northerly winds and swells which happen to be the prevailing winds. There is no protection, and dinghies have to be landed through the waves on to the beach. We decided to give it a miss, and head for Isla Pinos, where there is a break in the barrier reef. From there it is possible to enjoy some of the less frequented parts of Kuna Yala (the semi independent Kuna Indian area of Panama), and work one’s way up to the better known parts of San Blas, inside the protecting reef. The law requires that one has to check in and obtain a cruising permit($193) within 72 hrs of arriving in Panamanian waters. But, as there is no place where a cruiser can do this before reaching Porvinir, it is ignored by everyone arriving from Colombia, who could not stop in Obaldia.                       

A nice quiet anchorage

We therefore enjoyed a leisurely and illegal 60 mile cruise up from Isla Pinos through the beautiful, challenging, reef and wreck strewn archipelago, before reaching the more popularized, (and American colonized!) part of San Blas. Here the water is gin clear, and the islands and anchorages are such that one has only ever dreamed about! 

ST makes a great 4X4 over navionic islands!

No problems for the local Kuna!!

Navigation through these waters is tricky, and with both Raymarine(Navionics), and Garmin charts being SOOOO! wrong,….. one has to rely on the excellent Eric Bauhaus Pilot book, polaroid sunglasses, good overhead light, and lots of common sense!

Fearless sailors!

Sails could do with a little help!

Dad and kids visit us

The Kuna Indians are a very small race of people, and probably the last viable elements of the Mayan (and Inca) heritage. They have fiercely defended their independence, in Panama, and for the main part, have retained much of their old customs and lifestyles, in villages run by chiefs and elders.

villages are built right on the waters edge

With water born swerage facilities!

Local petrol station!

While the men go out in their dugouts, fishing and diving, the women spend time  handsewing and making their traditional, and complicated, reverse appliqué  “Molas”. These molas are  worn by the women, and sold to tourists and cruisers who visit. The background colours are traditionally burgundy, black or orange, with any number of brighter colours stitched and woven into the designs. They are traditionally worn as part of their clothing, but western visitors use them as cushion covers or wall hangings, for the most part.

Mola's for sale..all hand sstitched

Wherever one anchors, one is approached by Kuna’s in dugouts, hailing “Hola”, and offering fish, lobsters, crabs, Kuna bread, pineapples, fruit and veg, and … molas! The best known Mola” maker is “Lisa”, who is actually a transvestite, who calls him/herself the “Mola Lisa”, The Master Mola Maker! He /she is also a tour guide, and very enterprising individual, who also collects and sells all aluminium cooldrink and beer cans, to raise funds for Kuna children.

A few of Lisa's designs

His/her business card

Our route up from Isla Pinos, took us to Achutupu on the first day, past Snug Harbour up to Aridup, on day 2, and then on to Isla Tigre. These areas are rarely visited, and we enjoyed  having the places to ourselves, for the most part. Day 4 saw us go on past Nargana (the biggest Kuna town and trading centre), to Green Island, which was lovely. The weather turned a bit foul, but we were so well protected behind the reef, well dug in, that we stayed there until boxing day!

Green Island anchorage

Mary enjoys a swim behind Isla Tigre

Coco Bandero 

Thereafter, we stayed for 2 days in Coco Bandero , a beautiful little group of 4 Palm tree islands, with white sandy beaches, before moving on to the East Hollandaise Cays, where we anchored in the “Swimming Pool”

Supervising a plastic  rubbish burn !

Anew coconut palm sprouts!

 We were well protected, but the wind was pumping, and we were not able to enjoy it at its best. From there, we sailed past “Dog Island” in the East Lemons, for a quick dive on a wreck, before anchoring behind the Chichime Island cays.

We spent New Years Eve there, plus New Years Day, before leaving San Blas and heading for Isla Linton, a protected anchorage about 45 miles along the coast to Colon. Passing the Escribanos Shoals, we hooked and landed Senor Wahoo……23kg of delicious fresh fish which required gaffing and a tranquilising shot of  Cachaca!

Steve & Chris in the Christmas spirit

Senor  Wahoo!!!

 The following day we sailed on to Shelter Bay Marina, which is inside the breakwater protecting Colon, and the Panama canal entrance. The wind was blowing a bit of a “Hooly”, and the seas big and nasty.

Colon Breakwater is a welcome sight!

 We made good time, but were very happy to moor in the dead calm waters of Shelter bay Marina! The next day, we checked into Panama, after a long and tiring voyage from Colombia! We never mentioned our little San Blas detour! And nobody asked why it had taken a month to get from Santa Marta, Colombia!

Just keep on truckin;'

Another 1300miles, since Grenada, in the “Journey of Sheer Tenacity”!

We are now frantically putting her to bed for a month, while we fly back to RSA for a very welcome home visit, before heading out over the Pacific in March/April.