Raiatea and Tahaa

                                                                           24/8/2013

 

"Coral Garden" at Ile Tau Tau, Tahaa

We enjoyed a gentle overnight motor sail from Mo’orea to the twin islands of Raiatea and Tahaa, which are surrounded by a single, figure 8, barrier reef. The reef has 11 passes through it, and we chose the Iruru pass on the SW of Raiatea.

We are beginning to understand why so many cruisers had told us that there was so much to see in the Pacific, and too little time to do it in one season! We would love to have spent more time in French Polynesia, but with the seasonal clock ticking away, we decided to give Huahine a miss, and have a quick look at Raiatea/Tahaa. Despite food and provisions being so expensive, there is so much to see and explore, and there are so many free anchorages!  

Having entered via the pass, we picked up a free mooring buoy, (thanks to Moorings Charter services!) in the Faaroa Bay opposite the pass. 

Sheer Tenacity entering Faaroa Bay

Scott-Free moored beside us in calm flat water

After the rolly anchorages of the Marquesas, this was heaven!

The following day, we explored the Aoppomau river, up which one can take a dinghy fro 2 -3 miles. 

Apart from enjoying the vegetation, we scored a big green coconut, which was floating down the river, full of coconut water, for Mary’s rum & coconut water tipple, plus 2 breadfruits, which we “harvested “ from overhanging branches! (Not worth the trouble…. Chewy ,tasteless potato substitutes, even when boiled, and deep fried as chips, and eaten with tomato sauce and mayonaise!)

The river mouth at the head of the bay

Beautiful overhead canopy of tropical vegetation

We had to squeeze under these overhanging mangrove trees

  

That evening, we spent time with Rene and Cheryl, from “Gypsy Blues”, whom we had last seen in St Maarten and Grenada, 2 years ago. They had sailed this same route, last year to New Zealand, and have just sailed back to French Polynesia from NZ via the southern route…(total madness!!) , to spend the cyclone season in the Marquesas, so that they can do it all again next year!

However, they had shed loads of advice and information to impart, and as sadly is so often the case with cruisers, we went our separate ways the next day.

We motored up past the town of Uturoa, and the airport, crossing over between the islands, and on up the west of Tahaa to the Ile Tau Tau, to snorkel the “Coral Garden”.

Despite being spring lows when we went, it was fantastic! We then spent a quiet evening at anchor, just off the luxury Ile Tautau resort, watching the sun set behind the coconut tree fringed motu, with the distinctive silhouette of Bora Bora peeking through the gap!   

Upmarket resort on Ile Tau Tau

Bora Bora peeking through the palms on the motus

Dramatic peak of Bora Bora from our anchorage in Tahaa

 The next day, we motored one mile back over the channel, into the Tapuamu bay, where we dropped anchor in 21mts, (thankful for the extra chain!), and filled up with duty free diesel, in preparation for our leg over to Bora Bora, the next day.

A landmark on the way to the Pai Pai Pass

We had a pleasant 4 hour sail over, in light airs, and were able to see how our new sails performed! Not bad at all!

Exiting the Pai Pai Pass

Sheer Tenacity enjoying her new sails with Bora Bora in the background